Now that all the bearing/clearance tests are done it’s time to drop the pistons in. Looking at the Supertech instructions i thought it was kind of weird to put the piston ring gap opening facing the thrust angles. Seemed like a good way to get issues down the road. I asked around and a few engine builders said they use the OEM Honda clocking configuration, good enough for me and makes more sense.

Building my last few Bseries engines i had my trusty Snap-on tech2FR100 digital torque wrench for accurate and precise measurement, now with the new Honda Kseries engines they require torque then torque angling ie torque 22ft/lbs + turn an additional 56degrees.

I wanted to compare the two torque wrenches, 22ft/lbs and 56degrees. I used the tech2FR100 torque wrench then the manual torque angle attachment. Once i got the desired spec i marked the bolt with a black felt marker. Then i loosened the bolt again and retried with the Atech2FR100A torque wrench and used the digital torque angling feature to see if the felt marker matched up to the same as the previous test. It did, and i also found out that when i torque it to the angle the digital read out also reads what torque the final 56degrees is at. Pretty neat 🙂 -using manual torque angle attachment

Here is a comparison of the two torque wrenches. They look fairly similar physically, just the color difference. – tech2FR100 (red – digital torque wrench) – Atech2FR100A (grey – digital & angle torque wrench)

How it works is you insert the rod cap on with the dowels fully seated, then setup your gauge, zero out your dial gauge then stretch the bolt to the required stretch then torque to spec.

Then i found out about the Snap-on Atech2FR100A digital torque wrench WITH torque angling feature. I thought with the possible errors involved with using the torque angle gauge/attachment it was worth my while to check out this toque wrench. After having seeing a demo at the local Snap-on dealers truck i was sold 🙂 This toque wrench was pretty cool. You do not need to do one clean 56degree sweep, you can do small increments to attain your 56degree torque ie 20degrees+20degrees+16degrees. You can actually torque it 3 times to attain your 56degree angle instead of on sweep like with the manual gauge, also with less chance of error. The price is a bit more for this torque wrench but for the accuracy and time saved i thought it was worth it.

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In the beginning, i purchased a torque angle degree gauge/attachment. I found that this tool can easily go out of spec if you do not firmly hold it when in use. I built a couple engines with it with no issues so that was fine.

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Properly clock your piston rings to your desired configuration, drop it in the ring compressor, and into the cylinder. I usually apply my assembly lube on my rod bearing, on the rod side before installation or it may become quite difficult to do so after the rods in the cylinder.

Comparing the two head gaskets i noticed the RBB has some of the coolant jacket ports blocked off on cylinder 2, 3 and 4 in this picture (top and right side). Then you see the RBB has the coolant port opened up a lot more on the top cylinder1. I had both head gaskets so i thought i would share these comparison pictures for everyone to see.

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-using digital angle torque wrench Looks like it came out pretty darn close. I really like the Snap-on Atech2FR100A for convience and accuracy. I guess it’s time to sell my other torque wrench 🙂 However, on a budget the manual angle attachment is not bad for the money.

studying torque vs stretch vs torque angle i understand why lubricating the rod bolts with the supplied lube is important. Torquing is basically, tightening to a set resistance. If you do not lubricate or use different type of lubricant you can reach this resistance/torque far sooner than you would with the supplied ARP/Carrillo lube. So, make sure you lubricate the threads and the base of the bolt end.

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Okay so push the top ring in cylinder1 with the piston head inverted to keep the piston ring level. Then measure the piston ring gap with a feeler gauge. I do this for cylinder1,2,3,4 Piston ring gap of .008″

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I am comparing the RBB(04-08TSX) headgasket vs the PPA(02CRV) headgasket. Here is a side by side shot of both headgaskets, RBB on the top PPA on the bottom. Both 87mm in bore but with minor coolant jacket opening differences.

Now with these Carrillo rods/arp bolts, Carrillo insisted that use a bolt stretch gauge to preload the bolts before torquing them. So i guess i had to buy this new tool.

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To compress the piston rings i usually use a adjustable ring compressor, but i did notice that if you are not careful the rings can easily go out of place. This time around i decided to try the Wiseco piston ring compressor. It’s suppose to be really easy to use, but the problem is it is only one size. So, if you have 86mm or 86.5mm you will need to buy another one of these ring compressors. The design is simple, just a cylinder with a wide opening on the top to easily insert your piston/rings then tapering down to the desired cylinder bore, 87.5mm in my case. Here is a look at it, i was skeptical before using it. Thinking that the ring might get caught as it’s going into the cylinder but i was wrong, ring goes in smooth, stays in position and i have to say “this tool is awesome :)”

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Testing Piston ring gap. The piston rings are made by Supertech, the top and second ring have a marking facing up for installation purposes. The top ring is the compression ring, and the second ring looks darker(oil scraper ring), the bottom ring is the oil rings/spacer.

First off is to set the ACL race bearing into the rod. It is interesting to see that the bearing is actually thinner than the full rod bearing seat. This gives the crank less bearing surface to glide on thus less friction and can spin faster, thus allowing the rotating mass to spin easier with less restriction.