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I do think brand is important. I happen to really like Harder and Steenbeck, a German company. kurtvd19 is associated with a very reputable company (Badger, an American company) - I would ask him as well, he's much more experienced than I.

Cheers HOF, thanks. I just received one with the intention to see how it performs also. Everything in the box looks OK, and surprisingly of better quality than I had thought it would be, but have yet to test it. One note of caution, the needles seem extra fine/slim (not the tip, but overall) so they may be prone to damage quicker than for a name brand version. It may pay to find a source for replacement needles (I will let you know if I find a source) as I am not sure if other brand needles will fit through? I have yet to test for spray pattern, atomising etc but even if I don't use the airbrush, the parts alone cover the cost. I intend to have it permanently set-up with the 0.3 or 0.5 needle to use for putting down my base/primer coats, and use my H&S for finish coats and detailing. That way I am not constantly changing needles, and for primer coats, if the atomising works as well as the guy claims in the online test, then it will be just fine for this purpose.

I'm probably not the best person to ask. I rely on others' opinions and recommendations (my daughter in particular) but I'm not an expert.

I try and buy good brand name tools for my shop and the models I make, I ordered a battery Dremel tool, I got it the other day and was using it and the battery fell out of the handle !. I put it back in and it fell out, the tabs that hold the battery in place are to weak to hold it in place, Amazon will take it back and give me a refund. Just to show, there is NO QUALITY CONTROLL in china for any product. As they say garbage in , garbage out . Now if you want a real scare. Cadillac 4 and 6 cylinder drive trains are made in China, Wow Im going out and spent 65K$ on chinese carp . If you want to buy auto parts from E bay,,,, 98% of everything on sale is from China . I have no farther comment on that.

I love my Badgers, but they are only one make. All of the legitimate name airbrushes are great brushes - IF they fit your hand and you use the right brush for the job. In my local IPMS club that I attend there is another modeler who does essentially what I do with Badger except he goes to more trade show for Iwata. When somebody asks a general question about airbrushes we are both given equal time to answer the question unless it's specific with one brand or another. Many times all that the other will have to say is "I agree completely" because the name brands produce near identical results with comparable models.

Hello. I am trying to figure out what brand of airbrush I should buy. What exactly makes an airbrush good or bad, other than the namebrand?

I would love an IWATA after having their pro HVLP gun for another of my $$ hobbies but doubt I could justify the cost. A Badger looked good but so did the Paashe TG3-AS which I ultimately purchased a couple weeks ago. MSRP is $209 but it's available many places for $100-$125. I haven't used it, just admired the build since it really needs an initial cleaning and a test run first. Everything about this tool says Made in the USA, not Made in the USA and assembled of worldwide sourced parts like so many items these days. There are a couple You Tube videos about this air brush that are interesting.

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Hello. I am trying to figure out what brand of airbrush I should buy. What exactly makes an airbrush good or bad, other than the namebrand?

Fitment verification applies to year, make and engine only. Individual details such as model, trim packages, build dates, and other factory options can change fitment and must be verified by customer.

That said, and if OK to post; the package offers everything you need except the air-compressor. As discussed in the YouTube review, the cost of the accessories included is greater than for the whole package. His tests als0 show that it works well.

I run these on an Iwata Studio Series compressor. These are what I have tended to use for both my magazine work and also my Vanguard Models prototypes.

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A saying I picked up a few years ago: "There are three things in life, Quick, Cheap and Good, in reality there are only ever two." 🙂

I do have an Iwata but this is not working well, I purchased a 0.5mm replacement needle but not much improvement. (When I am a little more "Solvent" I'll look at a Nussle.)

Bd temptoday

Pride of ownership is not based on hollow emotional feelings. It comes from demonstrable performance and the saving of time and money. Think of the time to redo the finish on your model due to poor performance of the brush. The real deal is worth owning.

My daughter is a pro artist and she warned me about low-end brushes. She has tossed half a dozen in the bin over the last few years.

Right now, just about every tool for sale in the US comes from China, Snap-on , Mac, matco, and craftsman, all chinese . I searched high and low for a real spry gun made in the US, My Devillis fell off my bench and broke, of 15 years You better think about it again, it may be assembled here, but its parts come from China. The one I bought was from Germany, it cost 600$. . Im very satisfied with it. The crap from china would spit , couldn't hold a spray pattern, just junk.

Your signature line of "I stand firmly against piracy!" is misplaced with this post as at a minimum one of the 3 brushes is pirated from Binks. The bottom black airbrush is a direct copy of the Badger 350 - who took over the design from Binks - their neighbor across the street when Binks stopped making airbrushes. I have both the original Binks "Wren" I got for Xmas and two of the 350's from Badger. I think this is the most copied airbrush on the market. And there is a reason, ass it is a very good airbrush for it's intended use.

The basic features - gravity feed (top or side feed) or siphon, single vs. dual action - these are things I'm afraid you'll have to decide for yourself.

The barrel looks startlingly similar to my $300+ Harder and Steenbeck Infinity but I'm pretty sure that's where the similarity ends.

http://www.badgerairbrush.com/library/175.jpgIt is too fat for me to hold comfortably which was why I sold my Paasche brush and bought my Badger 360. I know what you are asking? I thought he had big hands? I do but the fat brushes just don't fit my hand.

My wife got me a lower end airbrush for Christmas from Amazon this past Christmas. It's my first one, and am quite happy with it. I took it my local hobby shop and talked to owner about it, and he thought it looked like an AK knockoff. It's super basic, but for me it seems like a good introduction into the airbrush world. It came with a small compressor even. Brand is MEEDEN. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B09MHBB1FZ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Folks I post this with a little hesitation - mods please delete if it exceeds guidelines. I came across the following airbrush deal the other day which is real value-for-money BUT it appears to be a Chinese knock-off even if sold in USA. As such I cannot vouch on how much of a knock-off it is?

The US manufacturing sector sold out to the chi coms for the almighty BUCK . The air tools I have are just as bad, they last about a year then you through them away. I have a REAL Chicago Pneumatic impact wrench from the late 60s, still works like new . The Jig saw I bought for making this model lasted about 3 hours, a B&D, cutting the plywood caused it to start smoking, It's in the trash can. I'll stop now, before I get on my soap box.

Kurt, you may be absolutely correct in your determination that the black airbrush is a direct copy of the Badger 350. I will also concede that all 3 brushes could be knock offs of other designs. There is no way of knowing for sure outside of comparing them to the blueprints of the originals they may have been copied from and taking measurements. There are not many differences between airbrushes cosmetically on the outside. The internals however are another matter. Fit, finish and choice of materials along with placement of O-rings, springs, etc. make the design. Chances are, that if you have anything on your workbench that is "made in China" it is pirated. It is also possible it could be a legitimate copy as some companies outsource items under direct license.

However, with Indefatigable and her size, these airbrushes weren't as friendly, so I splashed out a 'small' fortune on a new airbrush. The larger needle allows me to give a good wetting to the hull with polyurethane varnish.

Even if the knock-off sprays like you think it should, you will be forever asking yourself if the "real one" could do better.

Finished US Baltimore Armed Privateer Schooner Grecian 1812 (prototype) - Vanguard Models - 1:64 'Zulu' fishing boat, Vanguard Models - 1:64 Fifie' fishing boat, Vanguard Models - 1:64 HMS Flirt 1782, Vanguard Models - 1:64. Duchess of Kingston c.1780 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 HMS Sphinx 1775, Vanguard Models - 1:64 ERYCINA - Plymouth Ketch-Rigged Trawler 1882, Vanguard Models - 1:64. 'Nisha' - The Brixham 'Mumble-Bee' - Vanguard Models 1:64 'Saucy Jack' fishing boat - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Ranger 'Barking Fish Carrier' - 1864 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 HMS Indefatigable - 1794 (production prototype), Vanguard Models - 1:64.

I’m an Iwata user generally, but when I needed to spray 2 pack etch primer it was a Badger airbrush that got me sorted. They had a 0.8mm nozzle airbrush and it performed perfectly where nothing I had came close.

I don't know about NEOECO, but a $40 airbrush seems too good to be true... I guess it couldn't hurt to try it, at that price it is essentially disposable.

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My daughter is a pro artist and she warned me about low-end brushes. She has tossed half a dozen in the bin over the last few years.

I've used it a couple times, once just to toy with it and get the feel for it, but I've done 2 painting sessions on a cheaper model kit I got for Christmas as well, and it is pretty cool what you can do, and so much faster, and neater than using a brush. Not sure how this brush is for doing really fine details or lines yet, but again......I will monkey around with it and see what it can do.

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Some of the specialized tools that we use are still made here in the USA. Byrnes and Sherline come to mind. The last pin vice set that I bought (Moody) was made in the USA.

We are vigilant when it comes to pirated model kits, but piracy doesn't end with model kits. One of the "most-pirated" aspects of modeling are the tools we use.

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

I run these on an Iwata Studio Series compressor. These are what I have tended to use for both my magazine work and also my Vanguard Models prototypes.

I have a bunch - all Badger. My 360 is my #1 gun. I use several others regularly but the little old 350 is my hull painting brush.

Amazon.com: NEOECO Multi-Purpose Airbrush Kit, Dual-Action Gravity Feed Air Brush Sets with with Crown Nozzle, 9cc 20cc 40cc Cup, 0.2, 0.3 & 0.5mm Needles for Makeup Nail Art Shoes Tattoo Cake Toy Model : Arts, Crafts & Sewing

Our industry is very small, whether buyers, sellers, or manufacturers. If we want to encourage some small manufacturers to invest in machinery to make products locally, we have to lead by example, and buy locally-made products. Otherwise, if we are always looking for the cheapest solution, manufacturers will have little incentive to invest, create jobs, innovate, and feed our industry.

I personally prefer buying tools made in the USA where possible but lots of tools sold by major name brands unfortunately are not made here. I rather suspect that my Black & Decker Drill was made in China. A cynical marketing ploy seems to involve taking over highly regarded companies and then outsourcing manufacture to low wage countries. The only thing that survives is the name.

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The barrel looks startlingly similar to my $300+ Harder and Steenbeck Infinity but I'm pretty sure that's where the similarity ends.

I am attaching a link to Badger's website. Click on it and then download their ULTIMATE AIRBRUSH 101. It is a great guide to almost everything one needs to get started in airbrushing. On Page 5 of 13 the part about how to pick an airbrush starts. This tells you the brush or brushes they recommend for doing particular jobs. There is no one best airbrush for every job, but there is one best brush for a specific job. The trick is deciding what's most important for your particular job. And there are great brushes from all of the name brands.

Looks like a basic, all-purpose low end product. As my hobby shop guy told me...once I get used to this one, as it should get me started, and I want to upgrade, come see him and he will hook me up - he carries a lot of the major manufacturers and different models of each.

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I don't know about NEOECO, but a $40 airbrush seems too good to be true... I guess it couldn't hurt to try it, at that price it is essentially disposable.

For what it's worth, I use a Harder and Steenbeck Infinity CRplus Two in One with 0.2 and 0.4 mm needles. It is a gravity feed style.

Airbrushes are one of those things where you really do get what you pay for. "A cheap tool is the most expensive in the end." is a maxim that is especially true when it comes to airbrushes.

To expand on Bob's comment: Should this brush perform like the knock-off it is, others will have to follow. You will find yourself sneaking up, at wasteful cost of time and money, to the brush you should have bought in the first place.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

But, please purchase name brand brushes - you will benefit in the end. And try getting somebody from the Pirates to answer questions or come to your club meeting to show the latest brushes, paints or let you spray with one.

Bd temptomorrow

Indeterminate: Tender Avos - Master Korabel - 1:72. H.M.S. Victory (production prototype) - Amati - 1:64. HMS Granado 1742 (cross section) - CAFModel - 1:48

Personally, I think the Badger 105 is the best all-rounder. Price, quality, performance all intersect nicely with the 105, and for quite a few modelers, it can be your first and last airbrush. I have many other badger products, but the 105 is where I go most days.

I am willing to bet that all 3 are pirated, but I know the black one is a knockoff of the 350. I consult with Badger, so I know of what I speak. Why do I have two of the 350's? I teach airbrushing for Badger using Badger brushes. I have many Badger brushes (two were custom made for me) and they are all great. They fit my large hands perfectly with the exception of their Crescendo 175 model. I use the Badger Modelflex Marine Colors for all my models and teaching. I developed these colors for Badger a bunch of years ago. They are acrylics. I was using the Badger 360 and Modelflex paints long before I had a relationship with Badger.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.