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>Oyvind Naess wrote:>> >> I just bought a Olympus Stylus Epic (called mju-II in Europe),>> which have the following flash modes:>> >> - Auto

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I got the following answer, see below, and have sent thesame question using the "contact us" page athttp://www.olympus-europa.com/Oyvind>Subject: OLYMPUS Question -Reply> Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 10:57:08 -0400> From: Vincent Marino > To: oyvind...@scandpower.no>>Thank you for your inquiry.>For product, sales and service information outside of the >United States,>please contact :>OLYMPUS OPTICAL CO. ( EUROPA )>WENDENSTRASSE 14-16, 20097>HAMBURG >Tel ( 040 ) 237730>http :/ w w w olympus - europa. com

My Yashica T4 Super has a single Forced Flash mode that also acts as a Night Scene/Slow Sync. I guess it is just a fill mode thatalways meters for the background. I wonder why the Epic has separate modes. Maybe the are the same mode and just the icon changes? Maybe someone can test this out and fire both modesin daylight and at night? Dave Anthony

Same as auto, with stoboscopic red eye reduction. Warn people whenyou use this.> - Off (no flash)Flash never activates.> - Fill-in (forced activation)In some cases, the auto fillin may not activate, this forces theflash to fire in daylight situations> - Night SceneThis is like slow sync with an SLR. The camera calculates exposure sothe object near the camera is properly exposed with the flash, and thebackground is properly exposed using existing light.... a timeexposure with flash.

> - Auto with redeye-reductionSame as auto, with stoboscopic red eye reduction. Warn people whenyou use this.> - Off (no flash)Flash never activates.> - Fill-in (forced activation)In some cases, the auto fillin may not activate, this forces theflash to fire in daylight situations> - Night SceneThis is like slow sync with an SLR. The camera calculates exposure sothe object near the camera is properly exposed with the flash, and thebackground is properly exposed using existing light.... a timeexposure with flash.

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cheers-- ______________________________________ Jake Christchurch, New Zealand--------------------------------------

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One tidbit of info re the flash modes I've come across relates to theslowest shutter speeds of the various flash modes. Although the stylushas a slowest shutter speed of 4 seconds this is apparently onlyavailable in night scene (with/out redeye) mode. The maximum availablein 'no-flash' mode is 2 seconds apparently. The significance of thisis that if you're taking a night/dusk exposure with slowish film and thescene renders flash inappropriate then you're limited to a 2 sec maxexposure - not as good. I did a rough test of the times in the various modes for a nightexposure which confirmed what i'd heard above - the night-scene exp wasindeed approximately twice as long as the no-flash exp. Regards the difference between the night-scene and auto & forced flashmodes, I've no idea sorry. What I suggest is that you check out theOlympus web-site athttp://www.olympusamerica.com/camera/faq/camerafaq.html and give theiron-line service guys an e-mail - I've used them once & got a promptanswer.cheers-- ______________________________________ Jake Christchurch, New Zealand--------------------------------------

Yes, the fill in uses a different program than the night scene. Howalike they are I don't know. You would have to try. I would not usethem interchangably.

> Oyvind Naess wrote:> >> > I just bought a Olympus Stylus Epic (called mju-II in Europe),> > which have the following flash modes:> >> > - Auto> > - Auto with redeye-reduction> > - Off (no flash)> > - Fill-in (forced activation)> > - Night Scene> > - Night Scene with redeye-reduction> >> > What is the difference between the Fill-in and the Night Scene mode?>> > Is there any difference using these two flash modes in daylight> > conditions?>>

I appreciated your detailed explination, I saved it to file. Ireceived my Epic tonight, can't wait to try it.Thanks also for writing to Olympus, I'll be interested in hearing aboutthe reply.

I have a new Epic.1) Fill-in mode forces the flash to fire. The idea is to use it whenyour subject is in shadow w/ a bright background i.e. I recently sawsomeone's photos where a couple people were sitting on a boardwalkbench... the beach and ocean in the background were very bright, but thesubjects came out very dark -- a lousy picture. The fill-in flash wouldhave made the exposure more even by brightening the foreground.2) Night-scene mode uses a flash also, but less so, and slows theshutter down. This way instead of a strong flash that makes thesubjects bright (and the night background very dark), a less strongflash and longer shutter speed allows the night background to show up.It's almost the inverse of the fill-in mode, because it deemphasizes theforeground somewhat to allow in more of the background.3) Auto mode is just that. It uses the flash as necc. when things aretoo dark... it'll usually fire even on just a cloudy day if using slowerfilm speeds (200 and below). But, note that it is different than thetwo modes above. In 1), the flash wouldn't fire since the scene isalready bright... here you'd want to force it. In 2), the flash wouldfire, but not w/ less strenghth and slower shutter speed... you'd getbright subjects against a dark background.4) No flash. Simple... just uses available light. Primarily usefulfor indoors/nightime w/ a faster film speed... at least 400, 800 evenbetter.Red-eye just sends out a strobe that's supposed to get your subject'spupils to contract... I still see red-eye and am leaning toward just notusing flash when someone's eyes are visible... ruins too many pictures.-- Rob

Yes, the fill in uses a different program than the night scene. Howalike they are I don't know. You would have to try. I would not usethem interchangably.

???? Why, when they arre both available. The only thing you can dois experiment.The Epic also has a strange way of selecting objects to focus on usingits three beam autofocus. Learn how to use the spot mode alot.I got so sick of it's focusing I returned the camera.>>Thank you>>>oyvind...@scandpower.no

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Yes, the fill in uses a different program than the night scene. Howalike they are I don't know. You would have to try. I would not usethem interchangably.

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I have aksed Olympus (http://www.olympusamerica.com/docs/ask.html)for a more elaborated description of the working limits andpreferences of the different flash modes. On this web pageOlympus state that: "We are committed to total customer satisfaction",so I expect a detailed answer in a few days! When I get the answer,I will post it on this newsgroup. Oyvind Naess

I have a fairly new Epic 105. I've run about 25-30 rolls thru it andtried almost all the flash modes.The fill-in is just that -- fill in flash. You use it when you wantto force the flash to fire. (Subject in shadow, backlit subject,etc.) If you what flash, but the flash signal light does not appearnormally, change the mode.The night mode is one of my favourites. It takes the picture at aslow shutter speed to photograph the background properly -- then firesa burst of flash to properly expose the foreground. Your night streetscenes can have the "street" and "people" properly exposed. The onlyproblem here is camera stability. I've never used the "night mode" indaylight conditions as questioned above, so I really don't know whatwould happen.One thing that surprises me from the first question above is thenumber of modes. I've got a new champaigne zoom 105 stylus and Idon't have the night mode with redeye reduction mode identified above.I can't imagione that the NON zoom version has different modes. Areyou sure about that mode?By the way, the spot metering system works on all flash modes EXCEPTthe night mode.My impression on the camera is that it is absolutely fabulous. Ithink that the esposures are close. I've run about 4 rolls ofkodachrome 200 and fujichrome 100 thru it and had them properlyexpose. The camera seemed to do better with the kodachrome. thecolours were more saturated.The instructions recommend 400 asa film. I've tried 100 to 1000 andwould recommend the ZOOM (800) or the ULTRA (400) film (at least thatswhat they call it here in the UK.Mike

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My impression on the camera is that it is absolutely fabulous. Ithink that the esposures are close. I've run about 4 rolls ofkodachrome 200 and fujichrome 100 thru it and had them properlyexpose. The camera seemed to do better with the kodachrome. thecolours were more saturated.The instructions recommend 400 asa film. I've tried 100 to 1000 andwould recommend the ZOOM (800) or the ULTRA (400) film (at least thatswhat they call it here in the UK.Mike

> - Fill-in (forced activation)In some cases, the auto fillin may not activate, this forces theflash to fire in daylight situations> - Night SceneThis is like slow sync with an SLR. The camera calculates exposure sothe object near the camera is properly exposed with the flash, and thebackground is properly exposed using existing light.... a timeexposure with flash.

> I see no one has answered your question yet. I saw it yesterday and>don't have an answer other than what's stated on:>http://www.olympusamerica.com/camera/stylus/stylusepic.html>>There's not much info there; probably no more than in the instructions.>That disappoints me as I have an Epic on order and even with the info on>the URL, still don't have a clear idea of what the Fill-in and the Night>Scene modes do.>>Sounds like the instructions are severely lacking. >

Sounds like the instructions are severely lacking. -- Charlie Newark, DETo reply by email please remove antispam "TY" from address.

Yes, the fill in uses a different program than the night scene. Howalike they are I don't know. You would have to try. I would not usethem interchangably.

Flash never activates.> - Fill-in (forced activation)In some cases, the auto fillin may not activate, this forces theflash to fire in daylight situations> - Night SceneThis is like slow sync with an SLR. The camera calculates exposure sothe object near the camera is properly exposed with the flash, and thebackground is properly exposed using existing light.... a timeexposure with flash.

4) No flash. Simple... just uses available light. Primarily usefulfor indoors/nightime w/ a faster film speed... at least 400, 800 evenbetter.Red-eye just sends out a strobe that's supposed to get your subject'spupils to contract... I still see red-eye and am leaning toward just notusing flash when someone's eyes are visible... ruins too many pictures.-- Rob

The Epic also has a strange way of selecting objects to focus on usingits three beam autofocus. Learn how to use the spot mode alot.I got so sick of it's focusing I returned the camera.>>Thank you>>>oyvind...@scandpower.no

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2) Night-scene mode uses a flash also, but less so, and slows theshutter down. This way instead of a strong flash that makes thesubjects bright (and the night background very dark), a less strongflash and longer shutter speed allows the night background to show up.It's almost the inverse of the fill-in mode, because it deemphasizes theforeground somewhat to allow in more of the background.3) Auto mode is just that. It uses the flash as necc. when things aretoo dark... it'll usually fire even on just a cloudy day if using slowerfilm speeds (200 and below). But, note that it is different than thetwo modes above. In 1), the flash wouldn't fire since the scene isalready bright... here you'd want to force it. In 2), the flash wouldfire, but not w/ less strenghth and slower shutter speed... you'd getbright subjects against a dark background.4) No flash. Simple... just uses available light. Primarily usefulfor indoors/nightime w/ a faster film speed... at least 400, 800 evenbetter.Red-eye just sends out a strobe that's supposed to get your subject'spupils to contract... I still see red-eye and am leaning toward just notusing flash when someone's eyes are visible... ruins too many pictures.-- Rob

3) Auto mode is just that. It uses the flash as necc. when things aretoo dark... it'll usually fire even on just a cloudy day if using slowerfilm speeds (200 and below). But, note that it is different than thetwo modes above. In 1), the flash wouldn't fire since the scene isalready bright... here you'd want to force it. In 2), the flash wouldfire, but not w/ less strenghth and slower shutter speed... you'd getbright subjects against a dark background.4) No flash. Simple... just uses available light. Primarily usefulfor indoors/nightime w/ a faster film speed... at least 400, 800 evenbetter.Red-eye just sends out a strobe that's supposed to get your subject'spupils to contract... I still see red-eye and am leaning toward just notusing flash when someone's eyes are visible... ruins too many pictures.-- Rob

I see no one has answered your question yet. I saw it yesterday anddon't have an answer other than what's stated on:http://www.olympusamerica.com/camera/stylus/stylusepic.htmlThere's not much info there; probably no more than in the instructions.That disappoints me as I have an Epic on order and even with the info onthe URL, still don't have a clear idea of what the Fill-in and the NightScene modes do.Sounds like the instructions are severely lacking. -- Charlie Newark, DETo reply by email please remove antispam "TY" from address.

> --> Charlie Newark, DE>I have a new Epic.1) Fill-in mode forces the flash to fire. The idea is to use it whenyour subject is in shadow w/ a bright background i.e. I recently sawsomeone's photos where a couple people were sitting on a boardwalkbench... the beach and ocean in the background were very bright, but thesubjects came out very dark -- a lousy picture. The fill-in flash wouldhave made the exposure more even by brightening the foreground.2) Night-scene mode uses a flash also, but less so, and slows theshutter down. This way instead of a strong flash that makes thesubjects bright (and the night background very dark), a less strongflash and longer shutter speed allows the night background to show up.It's almost the inverse of the fill-in mode, because it deemphasizes theforeground somewhat to allow in more of the background.3) Auto mode is just that. It uses the flash as necc. when things aretoo dark... it'll usually fire even on just a cloudy day if using slowerfilm speeds (200 and below). But, note that it is different than thetwo modes above. In 1), the flash wouldn't fire since the scene isalready bright... here you'd want to force it. In 2), the flash wouldfire, but not w/ less strenghth and slower shutter speed... you'd getbright subjects against a dark background.4) No flash. Simple... just uses available light. Primarily usefulfor indoors/nightime w/ a faster film speed... at least 400, 800 evenbetter.Red-eye just sends out a strobe that's supposed to get your subject'spupils to contract... I still see red-eye and am leaning toward just notusing flash when someone's eyes are visible... ruins too many pictures.-- Rob

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The instructions recommend 400 asa film. I've tried 100 to 1000 andwould recommend the ZOOM (800) or the ULTRA (400) film (at least thatswhat they call it here in the UK.Mike

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There's not much info there; probably no more than in the instructions.That disappoints me as I have an Epic on order and even with the info onthe URL, still don't have a clear idea of what the Fill-in and the NightScene modes do.Sounds like the instructions are severely lacking. -- Charlie Newark, DETo reply by email please remove antispam "TY" from address.

>Subject: OLYMPUS Question -Reply> Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 10:57:08 -0400> From: Vincent Marino > To: oyvind...@scandpower.no>>Thank you for your inquiry.>For product, sales and service information outside of the >United States,>please contact :>OLYMPUS OPTICAL CO. ( EUROPA )>WENDENSTRASSE 14-16, 20097>HAMBURG >Tel ( 040 ) 237730>http :/ w w w olympus - europa. com

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Oyvind, I appreciated your detailed explination, I saved it to file. Ireceived my Epic tonight, can't wait to try it.Thanks also for writing to Olympus, I'll be interested in hearing aboutthe reply.

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1) Fill-in mode forces the flash to fire. The idea is to use it whenyour subject is in shadow w/ a bright background i.e. I recently sawsomeone's photos where a couple people were sitting on a boardwalkbench... the beach and ocean in the background were very bright, but thesubjects came out very dark -- a lousy picture. The fill-in flash wouldhave made the exposure more even by brightening the foreground.2) Night-scene mode uses a flash also, but less so, and slows theshutter down. This way instead of a strong flash that makes thesubjects bright (and the night background very dark), a less strongflash and longer shutter speed allows the night background to show up.It's almost the inverse of the fill-in mode, because it deemphasizes theforeground somewhat to allow in more of the background.3) Auto mode is just that. It uses the flash as necc. when things aretoo dark... it'll usually fire even on just a cloudy day if using slowerfilm speeds (200 and below). But, note that it is different than thetwo modes above. In 1), the flash wouldn't fire since the scene isalready bright... here you'd want to force it. In 2), the flash wouldfire, but not w/ less strenghth and slower shutter speed... you'd getbright subjects against a dark background.4) No flash. Simple... just uses available light. Primarily usefulfor indoors/nightime w/ a faster film speed... at least 400, 800 evenbetter.Red-eye just sends out a strobe that's supposed to get your subject'spupils to contract... I still see red-eye and am leaning toward just notusing flash when someone's eyes are visible... ruins too many pictures.-- Rob

Yes, the fill in uses a different program than the night scene. Howalike they are I don't know. You would have to try. I would not usethem interchangably.

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> I have aksed Olympus (http://www.olympusamerica.com/docs/ask.html)> for a more elaborated description of the working limits and> preferences of the different flash modes. On this web page> Olympus state that: "We are committed to total customer satisfaction",> so I expect a detailed answer in a few days! When I get the answer,> I will post it on this newsgroup.

Camera selects when to use flash. For auto fill in, color correctionwith flourecent lighting, etc.> - Auto with redeye-reductionSame as auto, with stoboscopic red eye reduction. Warn people whenyou use this.> - Off (no flash)Flash never activates.> - Fill-in (forced activation)In some cases, the auto fillin may not activate, this forces theflash to fire in daylight situations> - Night SceneThis is like slow sync with an SLR. The camera calculates exposure sothe object near the camera is properly exposed with the flash, and thebackground is properly exposed using existing light.... a timeexposure with flash.

> - Night SceneThis is like slow sync with an SLR. The camera calculates exposure sothe object near the camera is properly exposed with the flash, and thebackground is properly exposed using existing light.... a timeexposure with flash.

Using the light meter on my Canon A-1 as a reference, I found out thatin Auto mode, my Epic is activating the flash at light conditionswhere my A-1 suggest 1/45-5.6. First I was suprised about this, butin such light conditions, I guess most people appreciate the flashto lighten up the foreground as long as the background iscorrectly exposed too.Oyvind Naess

Yes, the fill in uses a different program than the night scene. Howalike they are I don't know. You would have to try. I would not usethem interchangably.

By the way, the spot metering system works on all flash modes EXCEPTthe night mode.My impression on the camera is that it is absolutely fabulous. Ithink that the esposures are close. I've run about 4 rolls ofkodachrome 200 and fujichrome 100 thru it and had them properlyexpose. The camera seemed to do better with the kodachrome. thecolours were more saturated.The instructions recommend 400 asa film. I've tried 100 to 1000 andwould recommend the ZOOM (800) or the ULTRA (400) film (at least thatswhat they call it here in the UK.Mike

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Oyvind>Subject: OLYMPUS Question -Reply> Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 10:57:08 -0400> From: Vincent Marino > To: oyvind...@scandpower.no>>Thank you for your inquiry.>For product, sales and service information outside of the >United States,>please contact :>OLYMPUS OPTICAL CO. ( EUROPA )>WENDENSTRASSE 14-16, 20097>HAMBURG >Tel ( 040 ) 237730>http :/ w w w olympus - europa. com

Red-eye just sends out a strobe that's supposed to get your subject'spupils to contract... I still see red-eye and am leaning toward just notusing flash when someone's eyes are visible... ruins too many pictures.-- Rob

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> - Off (no flash)Flash never activates.> - Fill-in (forced activation)In some cases, the auto fillin may not activate, this forces theflash to fire in daylight situations> - Night SceneThis is like slow sync with an SLR. The camera calculates exposure sothe object near the camera is properly exposed with the flash, and thebackground is properly exposed using existing light.... a timeexposure with flash.

Regards the difference between the night-scene and auto & forced flashmodes, I've no idea sorry. What I suggest is that you check out theOlympus web-site athttp://www.olympusamerica.com/camera/faq/camerafaq.html and give theiron-line service guys an e-mail - I've used them once & got a promptanswer.cheers-- ______________________________________ Jake Christchurch, New Zealand--------------------------------------

Yes, the fill in uses a different program than the night scene. Howalike they are I don't know. You would have to try. I would not usethem interchangably.

The fill-in is just that -- fill in flash. You use it when you wantto force the flash to fire. (Subject in shadow, backlit subject,etc.) If you what flash, but the flash signal light does not appearnormally, change the mode.The night mode is one of my favourites. It takes the picture at aslow shutter speed to photograph the background properly -- then firesa burst of flash to properly expose the foreground. Your night streetscenes can have the "street" and "people" properly exposed. The onlyproblem here is camera stability. I've never used the "night mode" indaylight conditions as questioned above, so I really don't know whatwould happen.One thing that surprises me from the first question above is thenumber of modes. I've got a new champaigne zoom 105 stylus and Idon't have the night mode with redeye reduction mode identified above.I can't imagione that the NON zoom version has different modes. Areyou sure about that mode?By the way, the spot metering system works on all flash modes EXCEPTthe night mode.My impression on the camera is that it is absolutely fabulous. Ithink that the esposures are close. I've run about 4 rolls ofkodachrome 200 and fujichrome 100 thru it and had them properlyexpose. The camera seemed to do better with the kodachrome. thecolours were more saturated.The instructions recommend 400 asa film. I've tried 100 to 1000 andwould recommend the ZOOM (800) or the ULTRA (400) film (at least thatswhat they call it here in the UK.Mike

The night mode is one of my favourites. It takes the picture at aslow shutter speed to photograph the background properly -- then firesa burst of flash to properly expose the foreground. Your night streetscenes can have the "street" and "people" properly exposed. The onlyproblem here is camera stability. I've never used the "night mode" indaylight conditions as questioned above, so I really don't know whatwould happen.One thing that surprises me from the first question above is thenumber of modes. I've got a new champaigne zoom 105 stylus and Idon't have the night mode with redeye reduction mode identified above.I can't imagione that the NON zoom version has different modes. Areyou sure about that mode?By the way, the spot metering system works on all flash modes EXCEPTthe night mode.My impression on the camera is that it is absolutely fabulous. Ithink that the esposures are close. I've run about 4 rolls ofkodachrome 200 and fujichrome 100 thru it and had them properlyexpose. The camera seemed to do better with the kodachrome. thecolours were more saturated.The instructions recommend 400 asa film. I've tried 100 to 1000 andwould recommend the ZOOM (800) or the ULTRA (400) film (at least thatswhat they call it here in the UK.Mike

I did a rough test of the times in the various modes for a nightexposure which confirmed what i'd heard above - the night-scene exp wasindeed approximately twice as long as the no-flash exp. Regards the difference between the night-scene and auto & forced flashmodes, I've no idea sorry. What I suggest is that you check out theOlympus web-site athttp://www.olympusamerica.com/camera/faq/camerafaq.html and give theiron-line service guys an e-mail - I've used them once & got a promptanswer.cheers-- ______________________________________ Jake Christchurch, New Zealand--------------------------------------

One thing that surprises me from the first question above is thenumber of modes. I've got a new champaigne zoom 105 stylus and Idon't have the night mode with redeye reduction mode identified above.I can't imagione that the NON zoom version has different modes. Areyou sure about that mode?By the way, the spot metering system works on all flash modes EXCEPTthe night mode.My impression on the camera is that it is absolutely fabulous. Ithink that the esposures are close. I've run about 4 rolls ofkodachrome 200 and fujichrome 100 thru it and had them properlyexpose. The camera seemed to do better with the kodachrome. thecolours were more saturated.The instructions recommend 400 asa film. I've tried 100 to 1000 andwould recommend the ZOOM (800) or the ULTRA (400) film (at least thatswhat they call it here in the UK.Mike

Oyvind, I appreciated your detailed explination, I saved it to file. Ireceived my Epic tonight, can't wait to try it.Thanks also for writing to Olympus, I'll be interested in hearing aboutthe reply.